As announced, all parts of my trip around the world are going to be CO2 neutral. This year’s tour will be no exception.
Below you can find the calculation of the CO2 emitted during my trip due to transportation and the certificate of compensation as issued by atmosfair. This organization has won several awards over a period of more than 10 years for its high quality standards when it comes to environmental projects and how they are used to compensate for CO2.
Was der Meckesheimer Spendenradler Karsten Drath in Norwegen erlebte
Rhein-Neckar. Alleine die Rahmendaten lassen das Abenteuer erahnen, das Karsten Drath in den vergangenen vier Wochen erlebt hat: 24 Tage auf dem Rad, Tagesstrecken zwischen 110 und 180 Kilometern, eine Gesamtdistanz von 2800 Kilometern, 29 000 Höhenmeter, also soviel wie dreimal den Mount Everest hoch, mindestens 100 Moskito-Stiche in Schweden und ein gebrochenes Hinterrad am nördlichen Polarkreis, für dessen Ersatzbeschaffung der Meckesheimer weitere 650 Kilometer als Tramper oder mit dem Mietwagen unterwegs war. „Ja, das war diesmal schon die abenteuerlichste Tour“, sagt er rückblickend, frisch und unversehrt wieder zuhause angekommen.
Seit 2017 unternimmt der Buchautor und Führungskräfte-Coach Radtouren. Damit wirbt er Spendengelder ein für die zis-Stiftung für Studienreisen. Mit kleinem Taschengeld sollen junge Menschen auf eigene Faust reisen und dabei auch sich selbst finden. 88 000 Euro hat er bislang gesammelt, 14 700 Euro alleine auf dieser Tour.
Drath war in Montpellier, in Gibraltar – und diesen Sommer am Nordkap. Die größte Herausforderung diesmal: Bei Jokkmokk am Polarkreis gab das Hinterrad den Geist auf. „Erst ist die erste Speiche gebrochen, dann die zweite, dann die dritte. Na ja, vielleicht habe mich mein Rad ein bisschen zu schwer beladen“, sagt er. Also trampte er erstmal. Ein Schwede in einer Ente, der zuerst anhielt, konnte wenig helfen, aber zwei Österreicher mit VW-Bus schon. Sie karrten ihn samt Fahrrad 120 Kilometer in die nächstgrößere Stadt. Aber dort gab’s nur ein Sportgeschäft. Also entschied Drath sich, per Mietwagen ins 300 Kilometer entfernte Lulea zu fahren. Dort kaufte er das einzige noch verfügbare Hinterrad. Auch in Skandinavien herrscht Ersatzteil-Not.
Dafür klappte die Einreise nach Norwegen, das Corona-bedingt erst frisch geöffnet hatte, problemlos. „Ich hab mir ein Loch in den Bauch gefreut“, sagt Karsten Drath und ist noch immer völlig gepackt von der wilden Schönheit dieses Landes „Das hat mich sehr berührt“.
In Norwegen machte er allerdings auch Bekanntschaft mit einer Endfünfzigerin, die ihn auf Englisch ansprach: „Weißt Du eigentlich, was die Deutschen uns im Zweiten Weltkrieg angetan haben?“ Drath wusste es nicht und machte Bekanntschaft mit einem unbekannten Stück deutscher Geschichte. Die Wehrmacht hatte Tausende Norweger umgesiedelt, zur Zwangsarbeit genötigt und alles zerstört, um die Russen am Vormarsch zu hindern. „Es stimmt: In Nordnorwegen gibt es kein Gebäude, das älter ist als 75 Jahre. Und das, weil unsere Vorfahren alles kurz und klein geschlagen haben“, so die bittere Erkenntnis. Es sei eine außergewöhnliche Begegnung gewesen, auch wenn die Dame nicht sonderlich herzlich gewesen sei. Er habe aber auch viel Herzlichkeit erlebt. Und eine ebenfalls denkwürdige Schlussetappe zum Nordkap. Durch einen acht Kilometer langen Tunnel 220 Meter unter dem Meer im Kaltluftzug bei vier Grad, „da kriegst du Schnappatmung“. Es war nass, es war kalt, aber es war großartig, an der Weltkugel zu stehen. Zur Feier des Tages gönnte Karsten Drath sich eine feste Hütte auf dem Campingplatz und einen Tag Pause mit Saunagang.
Das Ziel nächsten Sommer steht schon: durch die kanadischen Rocky Mountains. „Aber nicht zu früh. Die Bären sollen nach ihrem Winterschlaf schon sattgefressen sein“, sagt Drath grinsend.
Infos zur Tour und zum Projekt: fundraising-for-zis.blog
Karsten Drath will mit seinen Touren möglichst viele Stipendien für die Stiftung zis-Reisen erwerben.
Hauptziel der Stiftung ist es, Jugendlichen zwischen 16 und 20 Jahren fremde Kulturen zu vermitteln.
Durch Konfrontation mit dem Fremden, sollen sie die Chance bekommen selbst zu reifen.
Jugendliche müssen sich mit ausführlichem Motivationsschreiben bewerben. Sie bekommen jeweils 600 Euro. Mehr Geld dürfen sie nicht ausgeben.
Ein Mentor steht bei den Vorbereitungen beratend zur Seite.
About five years ago, I started an initiative to cycle around the world to raise money for the zis-foundation (www.zis-reisen.de). zis gives study grants to young people between 16 and 20 years of age. The students have to come up with their own subject of interest in a country of their choosing and travel there alone and without own money for at least four weeks to study their topic and immerse themselves into the culture of the place. They also have to write a thesis about their topic and keep a diary to capture their thoughts, feelings and learnings.
Because of the Covid pandemic, I could not leave Europe during the last two years and needed to find different travel destinations. So it happened that I have meanwhile cycled 7,000km from Gibraltar, the most southern tip of Europe, to Europe’s most northbound frontier, the North Cape. On the way, I crossed 12 countries and was able to collect almost 90,000€ in donations which is the equivalent of 100 zis study grants.
Here are three things about life which I have learned on these journeys.
If you are persistent, you can achieve much more than you think
Many people think that it is not possible for them to cycle such a distance. They think one needs to be an extreme athlete to do this. However, everybody can cycle at a speed of 15km/h. This is really a slow and comfortable pace. If you go at that pace for 10 hours, you reach 150km on that day. This is already a very decent distance. If you then repeat this effort for 47 days in a row you get from Gibraltar to the North Cape. Small things add up to a real big thing if you repeat them often enough.
The world really is a safe place
Many people tend to overestimate the risks of traveling alone to remote places, through the wilderness or simple unknown countries. However, the insights of thousands of zis journeys of the last 60 years and also my own experiences show that we tend to confuse the unknown with risk because as humans we tend to fear what we don’t know. Once you immerse yourself into a journey and you open yourself up to other people and to what is wanting to happen, it is amazing how many miracles are out there waiting for you. In all my travels I have always experienced generosity, kindness, and support whenever I encountered a difficult situation. At the zis-foundation, there is even a name for it: we call it “zis-Glück”, i.e. the luck of zis-travelers. I have learned that risk and uncertainty are nothing to be minimized but something to be embraced instead because they are the door to highly unlikely encounters, unforeseen possibilities, and mind-blowing miracles.
Less is the new more
Having been a manager for several decades, I have learned to appreciate status, luxury, and comfort over many years of traveling. I learned to see it as a token of my achievements, as something that defines the status quo for me. However, over five years of cycling around the world, I had the chance to unlearn a lot of this. From sleeping in four-star hotels, I went to staying in simple hostels and finally to camping in the wilderness. What I find amazing is that the more I reduced my level of luxury, the more I felt joyful peace, deep content, and a feeling of wholeness which I have never experienced before. It is the appreciation and gratefulness for the little things, for the encounters with strangers and for the moments in nature that cannot be bought with money and yet are so precious.
How does this sound to you? I am looking forward to your thoughts and your own stories.
I went to bed early after a chat with Michael, a slightly introverted cyclist from Darmstadt.
Around midnight I was woken up by a super loud alarm sound. It was a fire alarm and all passengers had to get to deck 11.
As it turned out, this was no fire drill but a real fire on deck 7 and one could also smell it. The fire itself had been extinguished pretty quickly, but it took time until the smoke disappeared.
It felt like the crew had the situation under control.
After an hour or so we could go back to our cabins and I directly fell asleep again.
I was woken up by an announcement that we would arrive in Travemünde shortly. I got ready, had breakfast and met Michael, the introverted cyclist, on the car deck.
We had the regular cyclists conversation comparing our gear and when our time came, we cycled off the ferry together and then parted ways.
I was super happy that Max, my car, was still there after a month. It felt already like a piece of home to me.
Putting all the gear in was done in minutes and then I was on the German Autobahn heading south at around 8:30am.
It was interesting how driving is different in Germany compared to Sweden and Norway. Obviously the speed is higher here but with this also comes aggressive and competitive behavior. I also noticed how I slowly got sucked into this myself.
After some traffic jams and a lot of diversions I arrived home by 5pm and got greeted by our neighbor Michiko and later invited to dinner by our other neighbors Nadine, Merih and Jürgen. It felt very warm and comforting to be amongst friends again.
It reminded me that in the Danish culture there is the concept of “hygge” which means luck but also has some elements from the German term “Gemütlichkeit”. One aspect of hygge is that your neighbors are also your friends. From that aspect I am lucky to have a lot of hygge in my life!
Carolin was still on vacation with her mum and kids and would come late home only tomorrow. Can’t wait to see her again.
Also, it looks like our house has been struck by lightning in the past week. Many things like the washing machine are not working anymore.
So, I still have some silent time where I can reflect for myself. I am trying to not go into “busy-mode” for as long as I can. Let’s see …
Next week comes the phase of readjusting, i.e. trying to understand what I am actually supposed to do at work. I have observed in the last years that this can take weeks. But it is also a good thing because you don’t get sucked into the rabbit hole so quickly.
Next day, Carolin came home and we celebrated being back together. We sat in her new camper van for hours and talked, drank beer and ate ice cream. It felt wonderful!
Learning of the day:
If you ain’t got love, it’s all just taking score If you ain’t got love, what are doing it for? John Bon Jovi
Today I am one month on this journey. What a great way to spend 30 days in an intense way.
I got up at 6:30am and started making coffee. Roos joined in and we started chatting again – this time more about politics and the eco-movement. I noticed that I did not want to pack up and get into the car. At 10am we finally said „goodbye“ and parted ways.
I felt a bit sad since I was closing a chapter – the journey to the North Cape – which I had thoroughly enjoyed.
I got into the car and drove the remaining 500km to Malmö. Driving a car is such a waste of time. I can’t wait for autonomous driving to become a real thing.
I arrived just in time – even had a traffic jam along the way – and gave back the rental car. It was 30 degrees. Everyone in the city was running around half naked. What a contrast to the Lofoten.
Across the street was a nice Irish Pub and I had to kill a couple of hours. A nice reason for Fish’n Chips and an IPA.
After that I had a look around in Malmö downtown and came across a statue called „non-violence“. I felt this was very symbolic especially when it comes to zis travel projects.
Around 6:30pm I slowly started to drive outbound to the ferry harbor 6km outside of the city. The check-in was easy and relaxed. Around 8:30pm I was on board with a G&T to celebrate this nice sunset.
Sleeping in a nice hotel bed with totally black window blinds makes for a great night sleep.
By 6:30am I was on the E4 again and covered another 650km (boring) to meet my old team colleague Matts in his cottage by a lake just south of Stockholm. He had invited me for “Fika”, the Swedish ritual consisting of coffee, something to eat e.g. pastry and a chat amongst close acquaintances. Fika can be done at any time of the day, even multiple times, and it is important.
After some quick calculations we found out that we had not seen each other for 18 years. Unbelievable! We had worked together in northern Italy implementing SAP in a Bombardier plant for locomotives back around the year 2000. Matts had be on the client site but since he too was an expat we hung out together a lot.
And the good thing was that after all these years we could just continue chatting like back in the days.
I was asking him tons of questions about Sweden and my observations about country and society and it was good to hear his perspective and the background he provided. And we also had coffee and “bolle”.
I also complained to him that I had not seen an Elk yet. So he told a story of a young Elk a couple of weeks ago who had pitched up just 50m from where we were standing. This made me feel a little better.
After a good 3 hours we said “good bye” and I continued driving south to meet Roos on a camping site next to a Göta Kanal in Söderköping. I had already gotten to know her at the beginning of my tour in Rusksele. She had been cycling up to the Norwegian border from the Netherlands, but was denied entry because of closed borders and her missing vaccination. So she had to turn around and is now cycling all the way back south and just crossed the 6.000km mark.
On the way I came through a lot of places which I had already passed by bike on my way up. It was a satisfying feeling each time.
Roos and I had some sort of dinner together and were exchanging on all the small and big adventures that each of us had encountered on their tours. It was super fun and it got late quickly. This is when I realized that I was now clearly below the Arctic Circle again and here in this region there actually is a sunset and it does get dark at night. This was actually quite comforting.
It was a perfect last evening of my time in Sweden and Norway before boarding the ferry back to Travemünde tomorrow.
Learning of the day: Old and new friends are like the spices in a delicious food. They make the difference.
After a great night sleep, I said goodbye to the Nordland and the Lofoten with a feeling of gratitude and sadness. But I was also very ready to go back home. Weather was sunny again, perfect for traveling.
Originally I had planned to drive down the Norwegian coast but a quick reality check showed that I would have to take too many ferries which would complicate and prolong the journey. Since I will board the ferry to Travemünde in 48 hours that would be a little to risky.
So I went back the E10 via Kiruna to Luleå and from there turned south onto the notorious E4. This road is hell for cyclists but for cars it is the only possibility in Sweden to get from north to south quickly.
Norway has meanwhile protected its inbound borders with military. Outbound was no problem however. The Swedish border was totally unmanned.
In Kiruna I got myself some meds against diarrhea and they seemed to work quickly. A real relief!
Temperatures in the Swedish East-coast were around 25 degrees. What a difference to the Lofoten just yesterday!
In total I covered 800km today. Close to Umeá I found a nice motel. I still needed to do some laundry before I re-enter civilization. My clothes smell like a cage of lions.
Learning of the day: it is amazing how far you can cycle with a bike in just 23 days. It will take me five days by ship and car to get all the way back to where I started from.
I knew that today would become tough … but not exactly that tough. Since rain had been forecasted I got up early and was on the bike by 5:30am. I had no breakfast to reduce the strain on my stomach.
Right from start itwas very windy. The first three hours were fine. After that it started raining and the traffic on the E10 picked up. Needless to say that there are no alternative bike routes up here.
For 100km after Solvær there was no infrastructure. Not even a hut to rest and hide from the rain. By noon I had already completed this distance and reached Lødimgen where I ate something and tried to get warm again, without much success.
Sine it rained cats and dogs, I waited about 1.5 hours to see if things would improve – but they choose not to.
In my inner team there was a lot of upheaval going on. More than one voice shouted things like „there is no way in hell that I am going back into this cold rain“. And this was still the nicest version.
However, eventually I went back on the road and tackled the remaining 80km. Unfortunately, my stomach problem was still there. I spare you the messy details.
Another challenge was to cross a bridge which was about 70m high at side winds with a speed of 15m/s ( which is a lot for a bike). This was the official bike route and there was no alternative. Have a look into the video to get a picture.
I had contemplated to stop for the night along the way and divvy up the distance. However, one major selling argument to my inner team had been, that I would be warm and dry tonight and that there would be no cycling in wet, cold clothes the next morning. This is really a horror for me when it is cold.
Around 8pm I finally arrived totally wet and cold in Evenes (aka base camp 2) with a new personal record. I had never cycled further with this bike and this amount of baggage.
I had parked my rental car near a wonderful camping site directly by the sea. What I had not known when I had fully intuitively picked this place on July 4 was that the island group of the Lofoten starts precisely here.
The owners recognized me immediately and had nothing but compassion for my shitty cycling weather today.
The very first step was to have a hot shower. While I had set up my tent, a Finish family had made a fire in a small hut directly by the sea. I asked if I could join. Unfortunately, the Fins soon disappeared into their camper car. They had small kids which needed to be put to bed. It was so good and relaxing to sit by the fire and suck in the warmth. Almost as good as a sauna.
Learning of the day: One good in the bad is that you can see what you are capable off.